Owner | Lisa Macafee | ||||||
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Location | Aliso Viejo, California United States map | ||||||
Vehicle | 1970 Opel GT In progress. Removed ICE components into heaps in my garage. Ordered adapter plate from ElectroAuto.com, and just bought my motor/controller/wiring/etc from KTA Services (who have been GREAT!). | ||||||
Motor | HPEVS HPEVS AC50 3-Phase AC Should be enough power for commuting. I don't want a race car, but I need to get enough performance to be safe on CA freeways. Does this need special cooling, or is venting via air ducts enough? | ||||||
Drivetrain | Manual original transmission, I decided to keep the clutch because of others' reports of waiting for seconds at a green light until the gear kicked in! | ||||||
Controller | Curtis 650AMP To power 108V LiFePO4 batteries. The AC50/Curtis controller combo has the advantage of coming with the wiring harness, gauges, & display. | ||||||
Batteries | 34 GBS 200ah, 3.20 Volt, Lithium Iron Phosphate With 200ah I should be able to make my commute daily just fine (37 miles freeway, 44 miles total). Still waiting to be able to afford the batteries. | ||||||
System Voltage | 108 Volts | ||||||
Charger | Zivan Zivans seem pretty standard, I'll buy a charger whenever I buy the batteries. | ||||||
Heater | none. Maybe install a hairdryer the first winter if it gets cold, but "cold" here is 40F. :) | ||||||
DC/DC Converter | Elcon 132-168VDC sealed unit Is it necessary to keep a standard starter battery with a DC/DC converter? | ||||||
Instrumentation | Going to rig the dash warning lights to the controller, should be able to use a lot of the stock gauges/lights that way. Add voltmeter/ammeter that comes with the AC50, and speed sensor. | ||||||
Top Speed | 75 MPH (120 KPH) Hopefully... should be no problem, the problem is having speed AND range for a reasonable price tag. | ||||||
Acceleration | Just looking to be able to accelerate with speed of traffic. | ||||||
Range | 65 Miles (104 Kilometers) Hopefully. I need 44 miles at freeway speeds for minimum daily driving. If I can't make this, my husband will be very upset at how much the car has already cost!! | ||||||
Watt Hours/Mile | Approximated. | ||||||
EV Miles |
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Seating Capacity | Stock two person. | ||||||
Curb Weight | 2,000 Pounds (909 Kilograms) Very light and aerodynamic (.39 Cd), so should be a good fit for EV! | ||||||
Tires | Stock, would like to upgrade to aluminum wheels and low rolling-resistance tires... | ||||||
Conversion Time | So far 2 months researching and buying donor car, disassembling ICE. I imagine many more because I only work on the car when teaching high school's not taking my time... which is never. ::Update:: 8 months so far, and I just bought the motor + parts. It's the affording that's the hurdle, not the putting together... | ||||||
Conversion Cost | Donor car = $3,400 bought 8/12 EV Parts = $6,364.19 2/12 Batteries = About $12,000 depending on what funds are available in a year... or two. | ||||||
If anybody has suggestions, I'm all ears. The only thing I'm particularly set on is non-lead batteries. I know lead-acid would be cheaper, but the car's max payload is 550lbs, so lithium it must be! So glad to take out the ICE components, especially since some just fell off in my hand (the throttle linkage!), and some were completely rusted through as to be very dangerous. Not to mention the smells. Recycling a smart looking car to "new" again is great fun! |