OwnerWillie McKemie
Owner's Other EVs1981 Jet Electrica
2007 Hyundai Accent
2011 Nissan Leaf
2008 Zap PK
LocationDale, Texas United States map
Email email image
Vehicle1999 Ford Ranger
Jalapeno green pickup
MotorAdvanced DC FB14001A Series Wound DC
Drivetrain5 speed manual clutch less
ControllerCurtis 1231C 8601
Batteries40 Thunder Sky TS-LFP160, 3.20 Volt, Lithium Iron Phosphate
One bad 160ah TS was replaced with a 180ah Sinopy; same form factor.
System Voltage120 Volts
Charger
Quick Charge Programmable OP-144-20 20Amps 144VDC 230VAC

Quick Charge Programmable OP-144-8
8Amps 144VDC 115VAC
HeaterInstalled a Kats block heater. Works great. 100 degree heat in 5 minutes.
DC/DC ConverterAstrodyne SP-480 DC-DC Converter
132-370VDC Input
Top Speed70 MPH (112 KPH)
Cruises easily at 55 to 60 mph in 2nd gear. I use 2nd gear 99% of the time. I use less than 200 amps at 60 mph in 2nd. 3rd gear is over 200 amps.
AccelerationFaster than a loaded dump truck, won't win any drag races but keeps up with normal traffic.
Range50 Miles (80 Kilometers)
EV Miles
Start:87,313 Miles (140,486 Kilometers)
Current:89,330 Miles (143,731 Kilometers)
Total:2,017 Miles (3,245 Kilometers)
Curb Weight4,970 Pounds (2,259 Kilograms)
Conversion Time3 months
Conversion CostAbout $17K includes $4K for doner
8/6/13
I acquired the truck indirectly from the converter. He needed a new battery and resisted high up front lithium cost and the high long term cost and maintenance of lead. So, he just sold the truck cheap. I leave his comments below.

Steve Clunn just finished intalling a lithium pack in this truck. It is a VERY nice vehicle. It is a real shame to put it to my use which is just hauling stuff around my farm over rough roads and fields.

Start engine removal 7/21/08.
08/04/08 Got everything removed, waiting on delivery of motor and all electrical components. Will start welding up battery racks this weekend. Plan to pick up US batteries next week or so.
8/25/08 Decided to put 7 batteries under the bed behind the axle and cut an access panel in the bed floor. 15 batteries will be in the front of the bed and 2 under the hood. Battery racks are complete and I installed new shocks and Firestone airbags. The airbags are great, with only 7 batteries the back end was very low, the airbags raised it right up.
I got my motor and most of the other parts. The 2 chargers and cables were supposed the be drop shipped but it's been 3 weeks and I still have not received them. I mailed my clutch disc to EV America's machine shop to have the coupler made but it apparently got lost in the mail. If it doesn't show up this week I will have to find another disc. Right now I'm almost to the point of not being able to proceed without the coupler.
8/31/08 Received the welding cables. Still waiting for the chargers. EV America is going to replace my clutch disc, excellent customer service, more than I expected. Loaded the batteries in the rear racks, need to make a cover and tie downs.
9/27/08 Motor coupler is in transit, due 9/30. I bought a crimper and made up most of the battery cables. I connected all the batteries and got 147V. The chargers arrived yesterday and I connected the 115V A/C charger. I was surprised at how low the batteries indicated, about 15% charge. After 15hrs they are at 99% and bubbling pretty good, I hope this is normal. I just checked and the charger has shut off, about 16hrs, and the voltage is 155V.
10/05 I finally got the coupler. I was pleased with the quality and the new way to get everything aligned. The clutch disc and coupler are temporarily pinned to the adapter plate. It makes it very easy to get perfect alignment. I got the motor and transmission connected and test run on 12V, runs very smooth. The motor and transmission are in place and I am working on the motor mount. It is a little tricky on a Ranger because the original engine mounts are offset, the right side is about 3" forward of the left. I think I have it figured out and will finish it tomorrow. Then comes the control board and controls.
10/19/08 Almost finished, at least almost ready for a test drive. I mounted all the components on the control board including the vacuum pump and switch. I made a vacuum accumulator out of 4" PVC and put it under the control board, works good but I haven't connected the heater controls yet. I have most of the wiring done and tested the drive system with wheels jacked up, works like a charm. I have a couple of things to do before I drive it. The back up lights connection, the AC/DC converter is not completely wired up and the gauges are not connected.
I think tomorrow will be the big day, stay tuned.

10/20 Success - Drove 20 miles this afternoon. The performance was better than I expected - very close to the original V6 ICE up to 60mph. I'm sure it will go a lot faster as it was in 3rd gear and not trying hard. I was disappointed in the steering. It takes a lot more effort than I thought it would. I will probably hook up the PS or swap for a manual steering box. Still have to install gauges and some battery hold down straps and do a complete checkup.

11/01 Got the power steering working. I gave up trying to find a six groove pulley for the motor shaft and installed a 1/2" V belt. I had to get a V pulley with a bushing for the PS pump and enlarged the 5/8" bore to 0.688". This worked perfectly. The motor pulley was a standard 3.5" with 3/4' bore. I used the original A/C-PS mount from the ICE and cut off some unneeded material and fabricated a mount attached to the motor brackets. I was able to use the belt tensioner as an idler pulley by turning it upside down. I am very pleased with how it works. There is no PS when not moving (unless you put it in neutral and press the accelerator) but as soon as you move five feet it operates normally. Sure is a big improvement.
I have now driven 300 miles and very pleased with the performance. I have been commuting 30 miles with no problem. I will gradually increase the range. This is relatively flat commute with no hills.

11/29 I have completed the first 1000 miles with no significant problems. The 300W heater is almost useless. I have ordered parts for a fluid heater. 1500W Kats heater,pump and HV relay about $120. I will also need hoses,clamps and wiring.
I bought a Crafttec cover for the bed. It is a light weight and has 2 gas lifts. BSAOHIO on EBay for about $230. Very pleased with it.

12/17
Got the Kats heater installed. Works great. Puts out 100 degree heat with fan on max. No more worries about defrosting. For more info check my posts on "Fluid heater success" on the DYI Electric Cars web site. Still commuting 30 miles per day, no problems, but 30 degree weather cuts the range.
I normally had 144 V left but only 138 when cold.

1/25/09
I removed the belt driven PS and replaced with 12V Toyoto MR2 PS pump. This is a big improvement. The PS is on all the time and works perfectly. There is a definite improvrment in acceleration and it is also quieter. The range is about the same. I paid $175 for the pump and about $25 for a relay and wiring.
I now have 2000 miles on the conversion and commuting 30 miles daily. The battery pack voltage when fully charged has increased. Individual batteries originally charged to 6.55V and now charge to 6.65V.
4/24/09
Update. I now have over 4000 troublefree miles. Range has been increasing nicely. I drove 40 miles yesterday, mostly freeway at 65mph and had 144.1V when I got home. My daily commute of 30 miles leaves 147V consistently.(the last was in a downpour with headlights and wipers) One change I made was on the Quickcharge from F2 to F3. ( the F3 setting holds a maintenance charge when complete - F2 does not)
I check the batteries about once a month and it takes about 1.5 to 2 gal of water. The voltage ranges from 6.38 to 6.54 ( an hour after charger is off). I always tighten the connections and it usually takes 1/8 to 1/4 turn - I guess the lead relaxes. There has never been any sign of corrosion or hot connection.
Power steering has worked perfectly.

More pictures on the Web Page photo album. Click on slide show.

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